It’s a perfect bluebird day in late April, with the bright Scandinavian sun glinting off the deep snow fields that blanket the Rumsdal Alps. While the peak season is over in southern parts of the United States and Europe, spring skiing is still at its best in Norway. One catch? The new route that awaited me at the top of the mountain could only be reached the old-fashioned way.
Ski touring is a sport that has been popular in Norway for centuries and was originally practiced as a recreational sport by mountaineering pioneers in the 1800s. I look around and see a group of Norwegians strapped to skis, preparing for the early morning summit of Smørbotntind, a 3,898-foot peak that seems just out of reach at the moment. Some Scandinavian adventurers even bring their dogsTogetheras if it really was a walk in the park. This is why Norway is one of the happiest country In the world?
There are no cable cars in sight, and heli-skiing is strictly prohibited in the Sunmöll Alps (and in mainland Norway as a whole). As an avid skier, I’ve always considered myself quite capable on the slopes, but that day’s climb taught me what it means to “earn your chance.” Everything that comes down must climb up with difficulty. A ski trip is thrilling, a little scary, but ultimately peaceful and the ultimate way to experience the Norwegian winter.
Although I will Cat skiing in the mountains of Colorado and heli-skiing in British Columbia and the remote wilderness of Alaska, my first ever ski trip. To be honest, I don’t see the appeal in the US – why spend all your time climbing mountains for a measly run?
Alas, I quickly discovered that having this mountain to myself, with its open alpine basin to the Emerald Fjord below, was well worth it—not to mention one of the happiest runs of my life. (Plus, after all the effort you put in hiking up the mountain, and the effort required to traverse off-piste terrain on the way back, you won’t have any energy for another uphill trek.)
The beauty of Norway is its endless wilderness suitable for all skill levels. You don’t need to be a ski expert to spend an afternoon on the mountain – which is lucky, because I’m a complete beginner when it comes to the art of ski touring.
I start my journey in the Norwegian forest around the Görenfjord in a expedition designer upper norwayis a boutique travel company specializing in off-the-beaten-path adventure activities. After arriving in Oslo, I transferred to Alesund Airport, where I officially began my adventure in the Sunmöll Alps. This was my first visit and I quickly discovered that the best way to get to know this Nordic country was to venture into these small towns and ancient villages scattered across the western Alps.
My original ski trip was a ski-and-sailing trip in the Gölenfjord, which included paddling through the turquoise waters to Trandal for our first alpine adventure. Ski touring is the simplest form of backcountry skiing, without the luxury of lifts, snowcats or helicopters to help you pursue ungroomed terrain. To that end, there are no mountainside restaurants or ski rental shops, so guides are crucial—not only do they share their knowledge of the vagaries of this untamed wilderness (cliffs to avoid, dangerous tree wells), but they also operate the equipment and provide the necessary avalanche expertise.
We set out all day outdoor guide On a mountain-to-sea ski touring adventure, we skied through alpine bowls, ascending more than 1,000 feet to the summit ridge of Trandal Valley. Before setting off, we received a “three-piece set” for the field: a beacon, a shovel, and an emergency detector. I was familiar with this type of avalanche equipment from previous cross-country outings, but there was still some learning curve with high-tech ski gear. First, we attached climbing skins (special fabric with a sticky backing for hiking up hills without sliding back) to the bottom of the skis and set the bindings to “walk mode” so we had more range of motion as we climbed up the mountain. Our touring boots are larger, lighter and more flexible than regular ski boots and feature an adjustable lever that locks in stiffness in downhill mode.
Adjusting to the new climbing rhythm was difficult at first, but then it became second nature – and oddly enough, skiing up the mountain was easier than it looked. The initial descent felt shaky as I’m not used to oversized boots, but this also became more comfortable over time. After the first hour, I settled into a slower, more melodic ski ride, taking in the nature around me and listening to the rustle of the trees and the sound of melting ice. Even though it was late spring, we still encountered sporadic snowfall on the climb, which made chatting with guides and other skiers more difficult.
There were no distractions except my own breathing and the repeated footsteps in the snow. Luckily the weather was clear when we reached our final destination below: in Christian GadIt is a family-run farmhouse restaurant built in 1505. “Ever since I was a kid, I’ve heard that trolls live here by the water and under the bridges,” says Daniel Storeide, the farm’s current owner (his family has owned it for more than 500 years). With centuries-old quirky Norwegian decor and a giant wooden swing on the hillside overlooking the Görenfjord, it’s easy to imagine fairies and elves from Nordic folklore calling this place home.
That night, the ethereal magic of the Scandinavian countryside followed me Union Eye Hotel Located in Nolandfjord, a tributary of Djolenfjord, one of Norway’s most striking fjords. The hotel is located in the small town of Oye, surrounded by the snow-capped Alpine peaks. Wilhelm II, the last German emperor, spent every July here. “We want everyone who comes here to feel like a king and queen,” Marius Stangeland, our vertskap (The host) talked about the hotel’s 135-year history and its ghostly inhabitants during an evening storytelling session.
“Ghosts are part of this hotel, but if you respect people, they will respect you.” Communication with the dead is a nightly affair, especially in the Blue Room, which is apparently politely haunted by a maid named Linda, who drowned in a nearby fjord after having a forbidden affair with a visiting nobleman. Upon check-in, the hotel provides a silver plate of garlic to place on your bedside table if you want a restful night’s sleep, or in the hallway if you want to get up close and personal with Linda’s ghost. (Guests often report having cry at night.)
Although Norrandfjord, a tributary of the Djolenfjord, is one of Norway’s most dramatic fjords, it is not as crowded as the nearby Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord. The majestic but little-known Djolenfjord is not on the traditional tourist route, but has a peaceful and peaceful feel to it. I spent the second afternoon on the shores of Norenfjord, kayaking in the crystal clear water and enjoying the feeling of floating fjord saunataking turns warming up in the sauna before jumping into the freezing salt water for a refreshing swim – a relaxing break before the second part of my ski trip.
My next adventure turned from the deep passes of the Norensdalen Valley to the jagged peaks of Åndalsnes, the climbing capital of the Rumsdale Alps. Åndalsnes is located at the northern end of the Romsdalen Valley, at the mouth of the Rauma River along the Romsdale Fjord. i live in Villa Rumsdalena design-forward Scandinavian rental villa conveniently located within walking distance of town; other accommodations include the historic Grand Hotelbuilt in 1890, is located at the foot of the mountain, Henali Cottagea stylish alpine hut located in the nearby Isfjorden valley. To get my bearings, I spent an afternoon riding Rumsdales Cable Car Climb up the steep flanks of Mount Nesaksla to 2,323 feet above sea level. The mountain is the backdrop for a Norway-centric episode in season four succession, And provided a clear view of the snow-capped peaks I was heading to the next day.
“We want to do things the old way here, but our way,” says general manager Kristine Rønning. Aker Hotel, This is our base camp Ski tour the 3,901-foot-tall Smørbotntind. “We want our guests to enjoy the outdoors, make memories and have a great time.”
The peak seemed so far away from where we started at the base, but what was surprising (to me) was the number of Norwegians leisurely hiking up the mountain in the middle of the week, their dogs happily trotting beside them. Here, mountain adventure is more than just a weekend hobby; This is a basic way of life.
And, much to my surprise, when I realized that going uphill wasn’t as strenuous as I thought, I decided it was a lifestyle I could get used to. Having become familiar with the rhythm of skinning during my early expeditions to the Sunmer Alps, I found that hiking to the summit was much easier than climbing the 3,901 feet of elevation. It was a blue day with the sun shining brightly overhead. I stripped down to a long-sleeved base layer, and took off my knitted hat and scarf—sunglasses and gloves were my only accessories in the Scandinavian wilderness.
Eighty percent of ski trips are uphill, and now that weather conditions and my personal skills have improved, I’m finding skiing even more fun. No longer obscured by goggles and a neck gaiter, I could comfortably chat with other skiers and take regular breaks for drinks, snacks, and music posted along the snowy cliffs. (Playing a Taylor Swift song on a portable speaker in the wilderness may feel like sacrilege, but it’s my truth.) I found this adventure to be the ultimate experience in connecting with my guides and fellow travelers, more exhilarating and exhilarating than traditional mountain hiking in any other season. By the time we reached the top six hours later, I was tired, but not so tired that I couldn’t ski down. From the top, as we enjoyed the panoramic views of the mountains and fjords, I understood why ski touring is so popular in Scandinavia and even around the world.
As climate change reduces snowfall at ski resorts in southern Europe and the North American Rockies, Norway, located on the northern edge of the continent, has become a natural haven for skiers looking for more reliable winter conditions. Skiing in Norway is still a more immersive and peaceful experience than the crazy lifts of Chamonix or the Dolomites. I’ve been cat skiing and heli-skiing across North America for years, but this trip marked my first foray into touring bindings and I was officially a convert. The quiet camaraderie of climbing, the meditative rhythm of climbing, and the sheer satisfaction of taking a turn on the untracked face below – it’s totally exhilarating and rewarding.
In addition to the adrenaline rush, a ski trip provides a chance to slow down, reflect on the natural beauty around you, and catch your breath. I had a connection with other skiers that I never would have had in a frantic repetitive downhill skiing session – rushing to the bottom and waiting on the lift line for the next lift. And, perhaps most importantly for the winter holidays, the after-tea activities are phenomenal. That afternoon, sipping mulled wine while gazing out at the jagged peaks you traverse, there’s a sense of immense satisfaction that even a splash of champagne on Cloud Nine in Aspen can’t provide. maybe this yes The secret to happiness in Norway: spend time in nature and not be in a rush to get anywhere. Anyway, I’ll be back next winter to test my theory again. See you on the slopes.
